This is Matthew of Another World Terraria, where I teach and inspire you on the topics of rare plants and artistic nature displays. In this video, I'm going to give you a tour of my tropical plant grow tent and show you exactly how I set it up and customized it, including the large viewing window, wall coverings, and rolling platform.


First, I'll show you around the tent, which is 72 inches tall, 48 inches wide and 24 inches deep. I'm growing a wide variety of plants from moisture and shade loving species, to xeric and bright light loving species, and lots of stuff between. I'm able to grow plants with different light, moisture, and airflow preferences, because the tall height of the tent provides a natural stratification of conditions.


The plants are hung on a plastic grid covering the tent walls and are either mounted on a vertical substrate such as cork, or planted in pots which I customized to have hooks. Before setting up my first grow tent, I only grew plants in plastic bins or glass tanks, which limited the size of species I could grow. Although it's not huge, this AC infinity tent opens the door to growing slightly larger plants, including terrestrial species, climbing species and pendent epiphytes which have long draping stems.


Main components of the system


All main components of this grow tent are AC infinity brand, and include:


The Cloud Lab 642 tent, which is made up of a metal frame and a fabric cover. The IonBoard S24 LED light, which provides light for the plants with full spectrum Samsung LEDs. The CloudLine T4 inline duct fan, which ventilates the tent by exchanging air between the inside and outside of the tent. The air carbon filter, which filters out particulate matter and odor from the air being exhausted from the tent. The CloudRay S6 oscillating fan, which provides internal air movement to reduce fungal and bacterial growth, equalize temperature strata and keep plants healthier. The smart controller, which programs the lights and fans and displays the humidistat readings, and the humidity sensor, which sends the humidity and temperature readings to the controller.


Customizations


The primary improvements I made for this setup are: I replaced the factory window, which is very small, with a much larger one, so I can view most of the inside of the tent without opening it. I added a layered wall covering of different materials, which I'll explain later. And I built a custom rolling platform, so it's easy to move the tent around if needed.


Now I'm going to show you how I did everything from start to finish, but first I want to give a shout out and say thanks to all my top fans who always comment on my social posts and YouTube videos, and thanks to everyone else who follows or supports me.


The first step is to build the tent frame. For the CloudLab 642 tent, I started with the A1 poles, which are 48 inches long, the A2 poles, which are 24 inches long, and the corner pieces labeled D1. I built the flat rectangular parts of the top and bottom of the frame by inserting the A1 and A2 pole sections into the corner pieces and locking them in with the springloaded pins.


I made sure the corner pieces were placed with the black plastic foot on the floor, which is also indicated by an arrow sticker. Then I attached the vertical poles using all four B poles on one half of the frame and all four C poles on the other half of the frame.


During construction I paid attention to which way the poles, locking pins, and corner pieces were rotated. I made sure they all aligned correctly so when I put the two halves together, the pins and holes lined up. The instruction manual shows putting the bottom half of the frame into the fabric tent floor and then putting the other half on top. However, due to how I was going to customize the tent, I put the entire frame together without inserting it into the fabric cover.


I had nobody to help me, so I got creative and found a way to support one side of the top half so I could easily line up the poles on the other side without having to hold the entire thing up at the same time.


The wall coverings


I layered several materials on the walls of the tent, each for a different purpose.


Here's a graphic showing all the layers. In order, from front to back, the materials are:


Visqueen plastic sheeting, spacer mesh fabric, and plastic grid.


Now, I'll give some details and explain what each layer is for.


Visqueen plastic sheeting. The farthest back of the layers, which touches the tent walls directly, is a flexible plastic sheeting called visqueen. It hangs all the way down into the bottom of the tent and overlaps part of the waterproof basin. When I'm watering and misting plants, the plastic channels the water down into the basin so it doesn't run behind and below, which could lead to leaks from the bottom of the tent.


I used 4 mil thick visqueen, which is sturdy but not unnecessarily heavy.


Spacer mesh. Spacer mesh is a type of breathable fabric made of synthetic materials, such as nylon and spandex, and comes in a lot of colors.


I put spacer mesh on the tent walls because:


It provides contrast to show off the plants versus the silver tent interior, it absorbs excess water from misting, so it's less likely to pool up on the bottom, and it keeps the humidity higher at all depths in the tent by holding some of the moisture.


I'll note that I don't care that the mesh cuts the light down by covering the reflective walls, because the LED light I used is more than bright enough, and most of my plants don't like super bright light anyway.


Plastic grid. The final layer is a black plastic grid, which is sold for a variety of purposes, but is often used on decks as a safety guard for pets and babies.


The grid allows me to hang epiphytic plant mounts and pots, and makes it easier to place the humidistat sensor and other cables. There are many similar looking plastic grids available, but the thickness and strength vary significantly. The one I got is somewhat flexible, but extremely strong and sturdy, so it can easily hold up the weight of lots of plants. It's also UV resistant. The square holes are one half inch across.


By the way, the video description lists all of the AC Infinity products, and a lot of the other products, tools and materials used for this build.


Adding the wall coverings.


The visqueen layer and mesh fabric layer were hung using tarp clips with locking knobs. The clips have a hole on the opposite end from the jaws.


I put thick zip ties through the hole and around the tent's top frame on the left, right and back, so the clips are hanging with the jaws downward. I used eight clips along the back and four clips on the left and right. Then I used side-cutter pliers to trim the zip ties. After the clips were attached, I installed the tent frame crossbars on the top, which are labeled as poles E and F.


I decided to cut the visqueen to the height of the tent so it would have plenty of overlap into the waterproof basin, and the overlap is increased a bit more since the tarp clips hang down a few inches. I measured and marked 72 inches on the visqueen roll and then cut it. The best way to cut visqueen is to leave it folded, mark the cut line, then cut the entire thing all at once.


My favorite scissors are the Fiskars Power Arc shears, because they easily cut tough materials, have micro serrations to prevent slippage, and are very comfortable to use.


To make it easier to hang the plastic, I used a large spring clamp to temporarily hold it up around the middle of the back frame, and attached the excess on one side with a couple of the tarp clips.


Then all I had to do was insert the end of the visqueen into the first tarp clip, turn the lock knob, then insert the plastic into the next clip and so on. It took a bit of adjusting when I went around the corners, so I left a little slack in that area to avoid too much tension.


Next, I tidied up the extra plastic overlapping at the bottom, which will go into the basin later, just to confirm the overlap was good and would work as I intended. To do that, I straightened out the excess flat against the floor and made a clean crease in each corner.


To make it easier to trim off the excess length of plastic, I straightened it out, secured it with some weight at the bottom, and a spring clamp, then cut it along the front and side of the frame.


Spacer mesh. I didn't need the mesh to hang all the way to the bottom of the tent, so for simplicity's sake, I used the 60 inch width of the fabric roll as the height of the wall covering.


I measured a section 48 inches long for the back wall of the tent and marked it with a silver sharpie, which is great for dark surfaces due to the contrast. When cutting stretchy or flexible materials, I make my life easier by putting some weight on it, such as jugs of water. This allows me to pull the fabric while cutting it, which makes it easier for the shears to slice through. Again, for this I use the Fiskars Power Arc shears.


To hang the fabric, I loosened the first tarp clip on the back frame of the tent, inserted it into the clip jaws while aligning it with the visqueen layer, then firmly tightened the clip lock again. I then loosely pulled the fabric over and temporarily locked a clip on, several clips down from the first, just to help hold the fabric up as I positioned it within the successive clips along the back.


Then I moved to the second clip, third and so on. I repeated this entire process by cutting sections of fabric for the left and right side of the tent and hanging them the same way as the back wall. I cut the side fabric panels a couple of inches longer than 24 inches so I could overlap the side and back panels in the corners. The farthest left and farthest right clips on the back wall hold the overlapping sections.


The next wall covering is the plastic grid. It's slightly rigid and retains a curve after being unrolled, so it helps to lay some heavy items along the length to keep it flat for measuring and cutting. The tent is 48 inches wide, but since the left and right poles of the frame and the plastic and fabric layers added earlier take up a bit of width, I cut the grid at 45 inches for an easier fit.


Since the grid will be supporting the weight of a lot of hanging plants, it needs to be held in place securely. I attach it to the top bars of the tent frame using thick zip ties that I place through each tarp clip hole, as well as a few extras near the sides and middle.


I repeated the process used on the back wall grid for the grid on the left and right sides. I made the side grid panels more secure by putting zip ties through them around the front, left and right vertical frame poles.


The grid comes on a roll 36 inches tall, but I wanted more height, so I attached some additional pieces to the bottom of the main piece. To do this, I overlapped the top and bottom grid panels slightly and used many zip ties to lock them together.


Where the side and back grid panels meet in the corners, I used a couple of zip ties to hold them together loosely.


I also put a few long zip ties at this point around the tent's top frame crossbars to prevent them from moving and make it a bit more rigid.


Viewing window


I wanted the tent to have a huge viewing window so I could see as much of the inside as possible without opening the door. So the tent sort of becomes like a greenhouse or a large terrarium. The window is 12 mil thick, clear vinyl, which came on a 54 inch wide roll.


The window hole is 51 inches tall and 28 inches wide. The clear vinyl material is 54 inches tall and 31 inches wide, centered over the hole on the inside of the door with an equal overlap on all sides of about one and a half inches.


I positioned the hole of the window approximately four and a half inches from the top and sides of the door, as measured from the nylon edging on the inside.


About four and a half inches from the top is just above where the existing default window begins on the inside of the door. I measured where the edges of the window hole should be and marked them all with a sharpie. I wanted the window corners curved on the side of the door with the curved edges, so they'd look better, and this would reduce the stress on the window connection when the door is flexed during opening and closing.


I wasn't worried about making the curve perfect, so I just hand sketched a curve on paper by eye and cut it out as a template. Then I traced it onto the corners of where the window hole will be, on the top and bottom of the curved side of the door.


Next, I unrolled the vinyl and positioned it with a one and a half inch overlap on the top, bottom and outer edge. I laid various objects on top of the vinyl, close to where the door hinge is, to hold it in place. Next, I drew a cut line for the width of the window with about one and a half inch overlap on the right side.


The last step before cutting anything was to use a Sharpie to make marks on the vinyl at each corner. I did that so it would be faster and easier to line the panel back up after I cut it and the window. At the square corners, I made small 90 degree marks, and at the rounded corners I made curved marks, all of them about one eighth inch outside the window line.


It was time to make all the cuts. I used the Power Arc shears to cut the vinyl window panel off the roll. I also trimmed off any vinyl around the top, bottom and far side of the window where the material wasn't square, and cut off some of the excess vinyl on the corners outside the rounded areas. I did that to make it easier to attach the window later, ensure an even and consistent fit, and reduce excess which could lead to separation.


I started cutting the window hole in the door by using a sharp box knife to very carefully make a 90 degree incision in one of the square corners, about an inch and a half long in each direction. Then I inserted my scissors into the incision and finished cutting the rest of the hole.


There were a few steps to prepare for attaching the window.


To prevent glue from getting on the floor and keep the vinyl clean, I laid a large sheet of visqueen below the tent door, extending well beyond the edges. Then I positioned the door material as straight as possible and placed various objects around the outer edges to hold it in position.


Next, I laid the vinyl window over the hole and lined up the corner marks from earlier. Then I moved the weighted objects further inward to overlap the vinyl and door, so everything stayed in place.


I used two forms of adhesive to attach the vinyl to the tent door. The first is Gorilla Glue Clear Grip, which I chose because it's strong, flexible and water resistant.


I wore a 3M organic vapor respirator to protect myself from the harmful fumes, and nitrile gloves to protect my skin. I also made sure to ventilate the area to prevent buildup of fumes.


I removed the weights from one edge of the window and applied several lines of glue between the vinyl and the door fabric, trying not to apply it too close to the edge of the window hole. 


Next, I carefully but forcefully pressed the vinyl down and manually pushed the glue around to distribute it more evenly and get better coverage up to the edges of both materials.


I put wide strips of visqueen over and extending beyond the glued seam and then placed weighted objects along it to improve the bonding while the glue cured.


I let the glue on the first edge cure for a day so it would help hold the vinyl in place as I worked on gluing the other edges later. I repeated the gluing process for all the edges.


The next day there were still some fumes and the glue hadn't fully cured, so I removed the weighted objects and visqueen strips, then put small items below the edges of the door and all around, to raise it up off the floor, allowing air to flow underneath.


When the glue was fully cured, I applied the second adhesive, which was butyl rubber tape.


It's a thick, heavy tape which has foil on one side and a sticky rubber coating on the other. It has a plastic liner over the rubber side so it won't stick to itself, and so you can work with it easily before and during applying. With the liner on, I rolled the tape out with equal overlap on the vinyl and the inside material of the door, so the actual edge of the vinyl is centered under the tape.


I cut the tape to the length of that edge with my shears. I pulled just a few inches of the liner away from the cut end, then positioned the end of the tape in place. I pressed down on the end firmly to ensure full contact. Then I slowly and carefully pulled the liner backwards a few inches, pressed the exposed adhesive down, then repeated this process all the way down the seam, making sure to keep the tape centered over the vinyl edge. I went back over the entire length and width of the tape and firmed it down a number of times.


I finished taping around the entire window, and got a little fancy on the angled corners by cutting the ends of each piece of tape so they fit together cleanly.


Butyl rubber tape adheres best when given time to settle, so I left the door laying flat until the next day. Then I flipped the door closed to check out the window.


Finally, it was time to cover the tent frame. I laid it down and completely unzipped all the zippers. One of the longer sides along the bottom has a straight zipper, and the other has a curved zipper. The curved one is the front where the door will be. So I inserted the tent frame with the open side facing that side. After securing the tent bottom by cautiously but forcefully stretching it around the bottom of the frame, I gradually and carefully pulled the rest of the cover over, avoiding damaging the window.


Then I zipped up the back side and door sections one at a time by closing the top zipper, then bottom zipper up to each corner.


There are various collared sleeves on the sides and top of the tent, which are for ventilation, cables, and so on. I tightly closed all the ones I didn't plan on using.


Next, the waterproof basin needed to be installed. I unfolded it and placed it in the bottom of the tent. I lifted the visqueen out of the way and pushed the basin corners into the tent corners up to the vertical poles. Using the velcro straps on the basin, I attached each corner to the frame.


Then I replaced the visqueen, so it ran down inside the basin, overlapping the gap between the tent wall and the basin wall. I folded the excess overlapping visqueen on the bottom so it was flat and neat.


Let me know in the comments with a "yes" or "no" if you plan to set up a similar grow tent.


Power strip.


The power strip is wide, with 12 outlets spaced in three rows. I put the power strip on top of the tent for tidiness as well as mobility.


IonBoard LED light.


Finally, it was time to put in the grow light. I bought the AC Infinity IonBoard S24, which is designed for ideal coverage in a four foot by two foot tent. It's high quality and uses Samsung LEDs in a low profile design, and is approved for use in high humidity.


The light comes with two hanging brackets which hook into small mounting posts at each end of the board. I put the brackets over the top center bar of the tent frame, then lifted the IonBoard into the tent and hooked them on.


For my setup, I needed to run the LED power cord out the collared sleeve on the left side of the tent. The customized wall coverings blocked the opening and made it a tight fit, so I unzipped the tent cover and pulled back the left side. From the inside, I fed the LED power cord over the top frame bar and down below the roof lip on the outside, then through the collared sleeve. I zipped the cover back together, then tightened the collared sleeve around the cord.


After that, I plugged the light in and tested the intensity control knob.


Later, I used a couple zip ties to secure the light's power cord to the main roof crossbar to keep it out of the way and reduce tension on the connection point.


Controller installation.


The AC Infinity system has a digital controller which allows you to program the light and fans. My controller came prepackaged with the Cloudline duct fan. There's a mounting plate for the controller which goes on the front of the tent. I installed the provided screws into the plate so I could hang the controller on them. Then I installed the controller mounting plate by sliding it down and hooking it into the fabric loops at the top right front of the tent.


Cloudline fan and air filter installation.


For the best plant growth and reduced fungal and bacterial issues, I recommend a tent have both ventilation and internal air circulation. I'll talk about ventilation now and internal circulation later. For this tent I used the Cloudline T4 inline duct fan.


I had two options for where to place the duct fan in the ventilation system: either inside the tent with it blowing the air out, or outside the tent with it sucking the air out.


In my case, I mounted the fan on the outside to conserve space inside the tent for the light and plants, and make maintenance of the fan and filter easier.


Exhaust fan platform.


I made a platform for the fan that holds it in position and prevents it from pushing the roof of the tent down. The platform's made of a top layer of stiff but lightweight plastic board, and a large piece of corrugated plastic sheet, extending the full distance of the tent frame from front to back, so the frame bars hold the weight. There's also a piece of open cell acoustic foam on the bottom to absorb vibrations and let the platform fit better over the crossbars of the frame. 


I followed the instructions to disassemble the exhaust fan, marked the bracket mounting hole locations on the plastic sheet, and drilled the holes. Then I put the corrugated plastic and stiff plastic sheets on top of the tent and positioned them so the Cloudline fan would be lined up with the collared sleeve vent on the top right.


I marked the location of the top plastic sheet on the corrugated plastic with a sharpie. I removed the plastic sheets from the top of the tent and, while holding the two pieces of plastic together in the marked position, drilled holes in the corrugated board in the same position as the holes I drilled earlier in the stiff plastic. I bolted the fan frame bracket to the mounting platform, reassembled the fan and stuck the acoustic foam in position under the corrugated plastic.


Next, it was time to work on the ducting. I got the AC Infinity four inch flexible duct hose, which has a black plastic coating on the outside so it looks nice. I slipped a four inch band clamp over the duct hose, extended a few inches of the duct, and slid it over the intake end of the fan. It was a tight fit, so it required some wiggling and force.


I slid the band clamp over the connection and tightened it with a screwdriver, then gently pulled on the hose to make sure it was secure.


With the fan back on top of the tent, I extended the duct hose and inserted it into the collared hole on the right side of the roof. After some adjustments, I figured out how long the duct needed to be, then cut off the excess by snipping the hard metal coil with side-cutter pliers, then cutting the soft foil with my Fiskars shears.


Then I inserted the duct hose into the roof hole and tightened the inner and outer collared sleeves. It's best to avoid sharp bends in the hose, so I tried to make a smooth, gentle curve from the fan into the hole.


Air is removed from the tent when the exhaust fan is on, so I needed to let in some make-up air to replace it.


There are a few mesh vents with removable covers in different spots around the tent, so it's possible to customize the ventilation when the system is set up, and over time if needed. At this point, I wanted to avoid too much loss of humidity, so I only opened the vent at the bottom left. As the air is sucked out of the top right, fresh air comes into that vent, so there's air exchange throughout the distance and height of the tent.


I got the optional air carbon filter, which prevents the exhausted air from having a bad smell and reduces contaminants that I don't want floating around my house. It comes with a cloth pre-filter which needs to be installed correctly based on how you run your exhaust ducting.


In my setup, the exhaust and filter are on the outside of the tent, which means the air will flow from the inside of the filter, through to the outside. So the pre-filter needs to be installed inside the carbon filter, so it catches larger contaminants before they enter the filter elements. To do this, I inserted my arm through the pre-filter and used my hand to bunch up the fabric at the end, then slid the entire thing down into the main filter cartridge, trying to keep the upper end of the fabric open like a sleeve.


Air filter stand.


I wanted the air filter to be positioned horizontally at the same height as the duct fan outlet, and have the duct between them very short. In order to have the filter positioned in line with the exhaust fan, it needed to be raised up a few inches.


Instead of making something fancy, I brainstormed a bit and realized I could use the air filter packing foam. On the thinner piece of foam, I used a box cutter to cut through the end cap by following the existing circular depression. This created an opening all the way through at the same diameter as the air filter. Then I put the closed end of the air filter canister into the circular depression in the thicker piece of foam, and slid the thinner foam piece over the other end of the air filter near the flange.


The foam pieces create a stand which holds the air filter horizontally at the height I want. It's not pretty, but it's fast and easy to make, and it works perfectly. I used some corrugated plastic board across the top of the tent to the left of the fan to act as a platform for the air filter and stand. At that point, I also moved the power strip onto the plastic board.


Final fan connection.


Next, I cut a short section of duct to connect the exhaust fan to the air filter, with several inches of extra length to make it easier to attach, and give some play if I need to reposition the filter. Then I connected it with a band clamp on each side.


I plugged the fan in, turned it on, then moved my hands all around the duct connections to ensure there were no leaks.


To complete the ventilation system, I placed a rigid plastic sheet across the top of the foam air filter stand to direct the humid air and any escaping carbon dust away from the ceiling.


Exhaust fan cable and humidistat.


The thin cable that comes off the Cloudline fan has a plug which connects to the digital controller. I plugged the end of that cable into one of the ports on the back of the controller.


I connected the jack end of the sensor into the back of the controller. On the controller mounting plate, there's a large slot which lines up with a slit in the tent cover where you can run cables into the tent. I slipped the sensor probe through the slit, and then from the inside, grabbed it and pulled the cable all the way through.


Inside, I used zip ties to tidy up the excess cable by bunching it and attaching it to a vertical pole. I mounted the sensor probe on the grid, about six inches from the top of the tent, using zip ties and a zip tie anchor.


Adding plants, Phase one


Even though I still needed to install the internal air circulation fan, I decided to move a few plants into the tent at this point. Since the tent was completely empty and too low in humidity for the plants, I used my water sprayer to saturate the spacer mesh. Then I started putting plants in by hanging them on the plastic grid or placing them in the waterproof basin on the floor. I chose the position of the plants based on their preferred levels of light and air movement, growth form, size, and so on.


Cloudray oscillating fan


For the internal air circulation, I used the AC Infinity Cloudray S6 oscillating clip fan. The oscillating version automatically pans left and right, so it's way more effective at moving air throughout the entire tent and won't dry out the plants as much.


I positioned the fan in the top right front corner of the tent. When properly angled, it provides good circulation to a large portion of the tent, and it's mostly out of view. The Cloudray fan has a clip, but I wasn't able to attach it directly to the tent frame due to the wall coverings and other issues, so I made a DIY mount. For that I used a strong metal clamp, with a metal grip attached to an adjustable arm.


The clamp is attached to the front horizontal frame bar. The arm angles outward a bit, and the Cloudray is clipped on to the grip at the end. I positioned the fan upside down so the neck attachment is on top, which lets me get the best fit and angle.


There are two wires connected to the fan. One is the power cable and the other connects to the digital controller. I secured both cables by attaching adhesive zip tie anchors to the fan clip, one on each side, and then zip tying them on. I left plenty of slack in the cables so they don't restrict the fan when it's oscillating. I ran the fan's digital controller cable through the slit in the front of the tent and plugged it into the controller.


Then I ran the fan's power cable up through the collared sleeve in the roof where the exhaust duct is and plugged it into the power strip.


When positioning plants in the tent, keep in mind that those closest to the fan will be exposed to the strongest air current and will dry out much faster, so it's an ideal spot for plants which don't like to stay wet for long periods, such as orchids and Tillandsia.


Earlier, I temporarily ran the Cloudline fan controller cable outside the tent for testing purposes. At this point, I unplugged it from the controller, ran it down through the collared sleeve on the roof where the exhaust duct is, through the tent, and out the slit in the front, and plugged it back into the controller. Then I tidied up the cable inside the tent with zip ties.


Program settings.


I programmed the light on a schedule, to be on for 13 hours a day. I set it at power level one, which is the lowest brightness. You can control the fans based on the humidistat readings, but I decided to program the fans based on time frames instead, since it's better for my needs. The exhaust fan goes on every 6 hours for 2 minutes at power level four. The oscillating fan goes on every 30 minutes for 3 minutes at power level three.


I've still got lots more to share, including how I built the rolling platform. But I'd like to ask, if you feel this video is helpful or you're enjoying it, please consider giving it a like and sharing it with others who'd be interested. Thank you.


Rolling Platform.


A number of months after setting up the tent, I made a custom rolling platform which I can easily move across the wood floor in my plant room.


Building the platform.


Just a quick safety note: Keep a clean and safe workspace and wear appropriate personal protective equipment, or PPE.


I wanted the platform to be the same size as the base of the tent, which is four feet by two feet. Conveniently, I already had some half inch OSB sheets precut to that size. I laid a couple two by fours down and marked them at 48 inches for the length, then clamped them down and made the cuts with a circular saw.


Then I cut a couple more pieces of two by four at 17 inches long to go between the main pieces.


Next, I laid all the two by four pieces on top of the OSB to check the fit for the frame. Then I moved the pieces below the OSB and lined up the edges so I could nail the platform together.


I used a brad gun, with one and a quarter inch, 18 gauge nails, because it's quick and easy, and there's barely any stress on the wood, so I don't need the strength of normal nails or screws. I went around the edges with the brad gun and nailed the OSB to the frame, making sure the brads were flush, or below the wood surface to avoid tearing the tent floor.


Then I flipped the platform over so I could attach the wheels. I use two inch caster wheels with brakes. They're made of polyurethane, which is strong but soft, and won't damage my wood floor. Using screws and washers, I attached the caster wheels to the corners of the two by four frame, making sure to position them close enough to the edge of the platform that I could use the locking levers.


I flipped the platform over and tested the wheels and brakes. Then I temporarily removed a bunch of plants from the tent so I could lift it onto the platform.


Cleaning the window.


After a while, the vinyl window can get a bit moldy and cloudy. Here's how to clean it:


Saturate a soft dish sponge with isopropyl alcohol.
Wipe the inside of the window thoroughly but gently.
Rinse the sponge out with tap water and leave it wet.


Wipe the window down again with water.
Wipe the window with soft paper towels or lint free cloth.
Wash the sponge out, then spray it with isopropyl alcohol to sterilize it for next time.


If you want, you can also wash the outside of the window. I'd recommend using a separate clean sponge for the outside, and just use water. Then dry the window with paper towels or lint free cloth.


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